Sea and Beaches of Ischia
'Il Paradiso all Improviso', or 'Discovering Paradise' is the name of one of the suggestive films based on the green isle of Ischia. Ischia's beaches, as a whole, are not extensive, but its beach paradise exists all the same - in between its rock sculptures, sheltered grottoes and commanding promontories.
Ischia's attraction lies in the diversity of its beaches and the influence of the volcanic earth underneath – at some spots creating darker, grainier sand, in others warmer water and steam baths.
The larger beaches, like Citara, San Montano and Maronti - the latter stretching for almost three kilometres - are generally more easily accessible and provide extensive facilities for families.
The smaller ones obviously provide more privacy. You can lay claim to a tanning rock or snorkel around the sea cliffs. The coves, accessible only by boat, recall tales of childhood adventures, of pirates and hidden treasure, as well as presenting romantic swimming holes.
Going around the island by boat from Ischia Ponte to Barano, a dozen inviting beaches and bays greet the visitor's eye. Below is a sample of the main ones you would cross, offering you just a glimpse of all there is to discover.
'Spiaggia dei Pescatori', or Fishermen's Beach is found in the historic quarter of Ischia. Framed by a backdrop of some of the island's oldest homes, it is home to the local working fishermen, who often can be seen mending their nets or gathering to play cards along its rim. It is relatively large and easy to access from Ischia Ponte, with numerous establishments hiring sun beds and umbrellas as well as the characteristic Neapolitan refreshment bars. It is also quite safe for children.
'Baia di San Montano', or San Montano Bay is one of the most beautiful coves of the island. San Montano's beach is sandy and sheltered, a portion of which is privately operated, hiring space and shade for visitors. The other half is freely public access with excellent public toilets and showers. Shaded parking is available for cars and motorbikes. Public buses will only drop you at the top of the hill but the walk down is worth it if you don't have to carry kids or loaded bags. There is a stylish restaurant at the beach or a snack bar for pizzas, sandwiches and drinks. On hot afternoons the shadow of the hill above provides a lovely cooling effect.
'Spiaggia di San Francesco', or St Francis' Beach is found at the northern end of the Forio municipality. San Francesco is a smaller, quieter beach yet still easily accessible. More for readers and loungers than families, there is a shaded, pay-parking centre. The Forio bus stops right at the tip of San Francesco beach, though you could reach it on foot just a pleasant half hour's walk from either Forio, perhaps less from Chiaia. If you prefer leafy streets, further removed from the town bustle, then this zone has a lot of quiet hotels fronting onto the water or within walking distance of this secluded bay.
The beach at Chiaia is a large and friendly stretch for all types of seagoers. Several breakwaters protect its shores along its width and length. Likewise, easily accesible by foot from the town of Forio, its esplanade offers numerous seaside restaurants and bathing establishments. Colourful paddleboats for hire line the shore, meanwhile towards the town, a small fun park sets up during summer, making Chiaia a good choice for families.
'Spiaggia dell'Cava dell'Isola', or Island Cove beach is known as the young people's haunt. One end of this beach is predominantly taken up by groups of people playing beach tennis, soccer or listening to music. Sometimes local groups will set up a small band stage to play live music. But even if this doesn't sound right for you, the Cava dell'Isola is worth at least one swim. At its far end there are some rock pools and crevices to explore. When the midday sun gets too hot, two convenient beach bars provide protection and good food. This beach is about a kilometre's seaside walk from Forio and has roadside parking, though in summer finding a spot can be challenging. Alternatively, the SEPSA bus numbers 2, 14 and 9 stop nearby, en route to Citara beach.
Citara is arguably the most popular beach area of Forio. The famed Poseidon Gardens thermal centre rests on this stretch of Ischia's shores, with a slew of newspaper stalls, bars and cafes and fashion outlets all located along the way, just beyond the beach strip. Close to the road, with regular bus stops and parking, it allows for easy and efficient access to this long and spacious beachside. Scattered throughout the water is an interesting collection of rock formations, like the locally labelled "tortoise", to swim out to and sunbake. Or you can simply choose to rest on its warm sand, an ideal place to read or doze in the afternoon sun.
'Baia di Sorgeto', or Sorgeto Bay is a picturesque cove accessible via Panza or by sea. It is not a sand beach, rather a rocky shore with numerous platforms over which locals climb to dry out or tan. Admired from above, this stretch of coast is stunning, with its geyser of warm spring water gushing into the open sea. You can only reach it via a steep path and steps though, so a visit needs to be balanced with a good dose of physical ability. Otherwise, there are water taxi boats from Sant'Angelo for hire that will take you to its coast, perhaps a more leisurely option. You can easily spend the day here, with a restaurant on hand and locals ready to paint you over with mudpacks. It's also a spot many visit for a cooling night swim or relaxing thermal bath. On certain nights the restaurant lights up the water, serving food and drink in situ.
Maronti Beach is the biggest on the island. One road leads down to Maronti and it's a spectacular one, furnishing a beautiful panorama of the beach and hills beyond and Sant'Angelo in the background. The eastern end of the beach is spacious and welcoming. Numerous beach cafes, surf huts and rental establishments service visitors. Around the middle of the beach, a short walk back from the seashore, are two of the ancient thermal fonts, Cava Scura and Olmitello, where you can feel the mineral water work its magic on your skin. At its western end is the 'fumarole' where locals sometimes wrap food in foil and cook beneath the heated sand. From Fumarole you can access the modern thermal centre Aphrodite or else walk over the hill to charming Sant'Angelo.
'Baia di Cartaromana', or Roman Paper Bay: Swimming out from behind Saint Anna's rocks at Cartaromana Beach, a great view of Ischia's Aragonese Castle greets you. But this beach is difficult to get to by land. As the road leading to the shore ends, you will find the area has very little parking and the descent is quite a way on foot. A confident swimmer who enjoys small challenges you can take the steps at La Ninfea Hotel and dive into the water below, or launch off the rock like the local kids, swimming around the bay. Indeed, the little nook below La Ninfea is itself a tranquil swimming spot, with its own outdoor bar to cater to the beachgoers. Perhaps the best approach to Cartaromana is by boat and two excellent seafood restaurants extend their jetties in welcome.
