Hot springs
At Nitrodi, one of the ancient thermal centres of Ischia island, stood a small temple dedicated to Apollo and the nymphs. Its construction alongside the thermal font reflected the ancients' belief in the connection between the water's special healing power and the magical forces of this gift from the gods, meant to cure the ills of humankind. Perhaps the thinking was a healthy body is better able to connect spiritually with the gods above.
The ancient Greeks, devoted to their pursuit of 'medicine' as a science separate from philosophy and theology, were the first to begin the quest into what exactly comprised the "thermal" properties of these special fonts that resulted in such beneficial effects on the body. Hippocrates, often referred to as the father of modern medicine, wrote his 'Use of Liquids' treaty, praising the properties of mineral water and hot springs. He was a firm believer in the use of thermal springs.
If the Greek settlements on the island were the first to tap into the thermal waters, under Roman rule the springs became public baths propagating their widespread use. New sources were soon discovered and developed, such as the Cava Scura and Cartaromana springs. Centuries later, a series of bas-reliefs from the Roman era were found, including one depicting gratitude and praise to the gods for good health obtained from these springs.
In the 1500s, with the benefit of further developed medical technology, Giulio Iasolino, doctor and university lecturer at Naples, provided a scientific census and analysis of Ischia's thermal springs. Each font and spa was analysed and classified according to its composition and distinctive properties. That of Nitrodi, for example, was classified medium level mineral water and hypothermal, particularly good for the skin.
The following century 'Pio Monte della Misericordia', a clinic for the poor, was built at Casamicciola Terme to take advantage of thermal cures from the Gurgitello, Fornello and Fontana springs. These thermal water cures were supplemented by steam and sauna treatments in natural grottoes at nearby Lacco Ameno or "fumaroles", volcanic vents, like that of Testaccio.
The fame of Ischia's thermal waters grew. So much so that the hero of Italy's unification movement, Giuseppe Garibaldi, arrived in 1864 to recover from the battle of Aspromonte. The Manzi hotel has preserved the bath where he soaked his wounds in the waters of Ischia.
During the 19th century, Sebastian Kneipp, a German priest often considered one of the founders of Naturopathic medicine, also studied and applied hydrotherapy to support medical treatment. Based on a system of controlled water temperatures and pressures, the 'Kneipp' pools became a standard feature in Ischia's thermal centres.
Although Professor Iasolino's early study had focused on the health effects of the springs, he had presciently noted the aesthetic benefits. "Women who regularly wash their clothes in it and use it for other purposes benefit," he wrote. "Such women are beautiful and keep their bodies healthy."
In fact, recent times have seen a transition from the strictly curative focus of the thermal springs to overall wellness. Several study centres were established on Ischia to explore what other applications the thermal springs could provide. In 1892 the 'Antica Fabbrica di Cosmetici' began operation, using the exfoliating and purifying qualities of the island's mud as a base for cosmetic products. The mud factory has become Ischia Thermae, now an international business with a comprehensive range of products drawn from Ischia's precious natural resources.
In the course of the last 100 years, centres began offering the complete package – pools, saunas and spas; doctors, beauticians and masseurs; food, scenery and comfort. The ancient rites of Nitrodi and Cava Scura can now be contrasted with the modern resorts of Poseidon Gardens and Negombo.
In the 21st century it is clear that the boundaries between science and spiritual worship will never quite be decisively drawn. For many doctors, thermal cures remain an alternative medicine. Meanwhile the pursuit of eternal youth, or at least an extension of youthful life, may seem closer than ever to the vision of the ancient gods. But the natural treats of Ischia – its unique red mud, 29 thermal springs, 69 fumaroles and over 100 spas - are irrefutable.
